Monday 9 August 2010

Growing Carrots


  • Forking may result from attacks of root-knot nematodes, from stones, from deep and close cultivation or (more frequently) from planting in a soil that was poorly prepared. 
  • Twisting and intertwining result from seeding too thickly and inadequate thinning of seedlings.
    • The forking of carrot roots is one of the major problems faced by gardeners. 
    • Forking can be caused by hard clay soil, stones, excessive nitrogen, or crowding in the row. 
    • Sandy loam is the ideal soil for carrots, but a heavier clay soil will also yield nearly perfect roots if it has been well-enough worked so that all hard clods in the top foot (30 cm) are broken up, and all stones are removed.
    • The addition of compost or well-rotted manure is also very helpful. 
    • Manure should only be incorporated the autumn prior to planting, however, because the elevated nitrogen levels of newly-applied manure will also lead to root forking.
    • Plant seeds  0.5-1 cm (1/4 - 1/2 inch) deep (no more than two or three seeds per inch) in early spring. 
    • Later sowings may be planted 1-2 cm (1/2 - 3/4 inch) deep when the soil is drier and warmer. 
    • Space rows 12 to 18 inches apart. 
    • A useful tip is to sow a single radish seed every 15 - 30cm (6 - 12 inches) which will mark the row for the slow germinating carrot seeds. 
    • Germination requires as long as two weeks and the seedlings may not emerge uniformly. 
    • If heavy rains occur after sowing, packing the soil surface, no seedlings may emerge. 
    • Carrots germinate best in warm, moist soil. 
    • Covering the row with clear polyethylene film warms the soil and conserves moisture. 
    • Remove the film immediately when seedlings appear. 
    • Thinning is almost always essential. 
    • While a crowded row of mature carrots will exhibit healthy-looking tops, the roots will be thin, misshapen and often twisted around each other. 
    • If you plan to harvest immature carrots through the summer, thin the row the first time when the plants are only about 2.5cm  (1 inch) high, leaving one plant per 2.5cm, see photo right. 
    • As you remove carrots to eat through the summer, try to increase the spacing of the remaining plants to 7-8 cm (3 inches).
    • To assure germination of successive plantings during the late spring and summer months, it may be necessary to supply water by sprinkling. 
    • In the heat of summer, some shade may be necessary to keep the tiny seedlings from burning off at the soil line.
    • Young carrot seedlings are weak and grow slowly. 
    • It is essential to keep weeds under control for the first few weeks. 
    • Cultivate shallowly with an onion hoe. Deep cultivation may injure the roots.
    • Carrots can be harvested or "pulled" when the roots are at least 1cm (1/2 inch) in diameter. 
    • Under usual conditions, carrot tops may not be strong enough to withstand actually being pulled from the ground and digging helps to remove the roots without damage. 
    • Finger carrots are usually ready to harvest within 50 to 60 days. 
    • Other varieties should be allowed to grow until they have reached a diameter of at least 2cm (3/4 inch) after about 60 to 70 days from planting.  They then may be harvested over a 3 to 4 week period. 
    • Summer planted carrots may be left in the ground until a killing frost. 
    • Some gardeners place a straw mulch over the row so that carrots can be harvested until the ground freezes solid. 
    • In many areas, a heavy mulch allows harvest of carrot roots throughout the winter. 
    • For carrots to be stored, cut off the tops one inch above the root and place in storage at 0°C  (32°F) with high humidity. 
    • Carrots may be placed in a refrigerator, buried in lightly moist sand in an underground cellar or stored in the garden in a pit insulated with straw. 
    • Under proper storage conditions, carrots keep 4 to 6 months.
    • To Freeze Carrots they must be blanched. 



      • Blanching (scalding vegetables in boiling water or steam for a short time) is a must for almost all vegetables to be frozen. 
      • Blanching slows or stops enzyme action which can cause loss of flavor, color and texture.
      • Select young, tender, medium length carrots. Remove tops, wash and peel.
      • Leave small carrots whole. Cut others into thin slices, 1/4-inch cubes or lengthwise strips.
      • Water blanch small whole carrots for 5 minutes, diced or sliced 2 minutes and lengthwise strips 2 minutes.
      • Cool promptly in ice water for 5 minutes, drain and package leaving 1/2- inch head space. Seal in zip closure freezer bags and freeze. 
    • Use a vegetable brush to remove every speck of soil from carrots. Peel if desired. 
    • Raw carrots are naturally sweet, but lightly cooked carrots are even sweeter. 
    • Carrots are one of those vegetables that loses very little nutritional value during cooking. 
    • In fact, some nutrients in slightly cooked carrots are more available to the body than raw carrots. 
    • Cooking actually breaks down the tough cellular wall of carrots making some nutrients more useable to the body.
    • Carrots can be shredded, chopped, juiced or cooked whole. 
    • They are delicious roasted, boiled, steamed, stir-fried, grilled, and they team up beautifully with almost any vegetable companion. 
    • Carrots boost the nutritional value of soups, stews, salads and are indispensable in the stockpot.

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